So far, we have not encountered too many holidays. Thanksgiving was nice, but because Kelsey and
I were the only two Americans in our Team Lidu family, we did not cancel
classes or do anything particularly special.
I made taro root sweet potatoes with marshmallows, stuffing, and mashed
potatoes. Matt and Michael brought over
some vegetable dishes and Molly brought over some wine. We also purchased a small chicken. It was all rather cozy and peaceful. The holiday
passed and we moved on towards the next major holiday, Christmas. We immediately started gathering Christmas
decorations and thinking about presents for each other.
Now, Christmas is a big deal to most Westerners. Even though it is predominantly thought of as
a Christian celebration it is also a time for people to be with their families,
give each other things and generally feel warm and fuzzy. This year Christmas fell on a Tuesday. Realizing this, Kelsey and I decided that we
would hold one giant cultural experience class in lieu of classes for the
week. All of our students would be given
Secret Santa partners, listen to English Christmas songs, and practice their
English conversation skills. We spent
the preceding weeks talking about Christmas, planning the “party,” and
assigning tasks to the students. Everyone
was all very excited. About a week and a
half before the party I went into the department office and asked the secretary
about getting a room. I explained that
we were having a party for Christmas and that we needed a classroom that could
hold about 180 students. The secretary
thought that this was an excellent idea and proceeded to find me a room. However, the original date that we had wanted
was not possible because it was during the week and we are not allowed to hold
functions during the week in the evenings, only class. I explained that it was class and that it was
a cultural experience class, but she only smiled and nodded and told me the new
date, time, and location. I then relayed
this information to my students and went on preparing for Christmas as happy as
can be.
The week of the party came and on Tuesday of that week the
foreign affairs department dropped some things off at our apartment and
happened to mention that we would be
going on a trip that weekend, that we would be leaving Thursday afternoon and
then, that we would be having dinner with them that Monday, on Christmas
Eve. Shocked, and a little frustrated,
we explained that we had a very important party with our students that Sunday
and that Kelsey taught classes all day Thursday. They said that they could not guarantee that
we would be back in time on Sunday and that it was okay, they would cancel
Kelsey’s classes for her. Now, this has
happened a few times before. We are
always told at the last minute that something is happening and they are
frequently canceling our classes. We
have simply been left to reschedule our classes whenever and wherever we
could. This has created a lot of
stress.
When, at the beginning of the semester, I asked how to
reschedule missed classes, the secretary explained to me that we were to do it on
our own. I now know that we had an error
in communication and that by “on your own” she really meant that I, on my own,
go to one office and talk to someone.
That someone gives me paperwork.
I then take that paperwork to another person. That person then processes that paperwork and
talks to another group of people. That
group of people gets back to that person and then that person gets back to
me. I then reserve a room and relay this
information to the secretary who takes note of it. However, this process is incredibly
complicated and full of bureaucratic nonsense and no one uses this method to
reschedule classes. All of the other
teachers simply tell their class monitors to reserve a classroom at a time that
is convenient for both the teacher and the students. This is the method that we had been using so
far and this is the method that we thought was the right method. Oh, were we wrong.
Originally, we were told that we were leaving on a Thursday
and that we were going to be on a boat cruise down the Yangtze River. We were also told that we would be picking
fruit on Sunday morning. However, plans
changed, and we ended up leaving Friday morning so Kelsey did not need to
cancel classes and she avoided unknown wrong doing. Over the course of the weekend it was also
decided that we would not pick fruit in the morning on Saturday because we were
all cold, Kelsey was really sick, most of us had climbed a mountain (literally)
the day before, and we were all too tired.
We got home in plenty of time to have our Christmas class and we were
incredibly happy and ready to celebrate Christmas with our students. The Christmas party went off without a
hitch. Everyone brought their Secret
Santa gifts and all of the students showed up. There was food, everyone was talking in English,
laughing and having a great time. The
evening ended early, Kelsey and I gathered our things and headed home. Now, you will recall that we had cancelled
classes that week and instead had this one large class, which, ironically, is very
much like a smaller version of the school’s sanctioned weekly event called
English Corner.
Monday came and it went by fairly smooth. I woke up, and not having to go to class,
went into Fuling with Kelsey to do our last minute Christmas shopping for the
rest of Team Lidu. We came home, wrapped
presents, and saw or heard nothing from anyone until our special Christmas Eve
dinner with the department. It was
really very kind of them to take us out on Christmas Eve. I truly appreciate the attempt to make us
feel like we were at home. However, this
was like Christmas dinner the Fear Factor edition. We walked into the banquet hall of a hotel
and everything was filled with bright, flashing lights. There were speakers playing Christmas music
loudly. Directly across from the
entrance was a stage. The stage was huge
and had a catwalk that extended almost all the way through the room. Eventually, everyone arrived and a Christmas
show started that was put on by the staff members of the hotel. It was a lot of dancing and singing, all in
Chinese. There was a raffle to win money
and other prizes that continued throughout the night. Then, the food started to
arrive. Now, I love food and I will eat
almost anything, but much of this dinner was questionable. It was multiple courses, each one a little
bit more disgusting than the previous one.
None of it was Chinese food, which is wonderful and would have been
welcome. It was an attempt at some other
cuisine, but I am not sure which. The
worst and most hideous thing that found its way in front of us was a sea
cucumber. It looked like a slug, jiggled
like a slug, and was covered in slimy gravy.
I took one, tiny bite and almost spit it out. It was disgusting. This was followed by desert, which was an
onion-paste filled pastry. Then, the
real reason that we were invited to dinner became apparent. They wanted us, the foreigners, to get up on
stage and sing and draw raffle tickets.
We were, again, being exploited.
Every time our school “takes us on a trip” or does something for us,
there are cameras or there is an audience present. I get it, it’s good publicity for the school,
but sometimes I really just want someone to do something nice just to be nice,
especially on Christmas Eve. Kelsey took
one for the team though and went on up.
She did a lovely job.
Matt, Michael, Molly, Kelsey, and I all ended up staying in
Fuling that night. We went to a nice,
quiet, empty bar and had a beer or two.
Then we ended up at this really crazy club where we were given Santa
hats and counted down to Christmas.
Really, there was a count down.
It was a great deal of fun and then we all went home. The next day we planned to reconvene for
Christmas dinner.
Imagine my surprise, after hearing nothing on Monday about
any of those cancelled classes, upon receiving a text from Michael about the secretary
giving him an angry call about cancelling his classes for Tuesday. We had all canceled classes before either
because we were sick or because the school forced us to so that they could take
us somewhere. So we were very confused
as to why Christmas Day of all days was suddenly a concern. Also, why were they checking to make sure we
were there? We had never been checked on
before. Sure enough, about an hour later
I got a call from the secretary asking me why I was not in my classroom. I explained to her that it was Christmas,
that my contract said that I got Christmas off, and that I had already had a
makeup lesson for this day on Sunday.
She told me that I did not get Christmas off unless I already did not have
class on Christmas, that my makeup lesson only counted as a class activity, and
that it was forbidden. I am certain she
does not understand Western culture very well, because otherwise I do not think
she would have used the words, “It is forbidden.” I am far too stubborn and it was Christmas
Day. I was not coming into work, neither
were the others, and she could talk to me about this later. Grumpy, but awake, I proceeded to get up and
get ready for Christmas. I desperately
tried not to be a Grinch and go about my day.
However, she called a second time.
I am a kind and patient person, but I am also very stubborn. Once I am annoyed and once you give me a
reason to be stubborn about something you had better not argue with me or give
me any more reason to be annoyed. That poor
woman. All I can say is that she did not
try to call me again after that conversation as she realized that I was most
displeased with her. Thoroughly Grinched,
I tried my best to recover. I later commiserated
with the others at dinner over their Christmas wakeup calls.
Christmas dinner was lovely.
We brought all of our presents over to the boys’ apartment and put them
under the fabulous Christmas tree that they had found. We had another potluck dinner. Michael made a lovely roast, mashed potatoes,
gravy, and broccoli; Molly made a salad; and I made a green bean dish and
donuts. Everything was warm and merry and we drank mulled wine, listened to
music, ate dinner exchanged gifts and chatted.
Later that evening, we went out for a quiet drink and then came
home. It was a lovely and quiet evening
full of warmth and fuzziness, just what Christmas should be. Although we were well aware that we had
staged a Christmas Coup and that we were going to get into trouble for
this. China does not take too kindly to groups
of people forming together and resisting authority.
Sure enough, the administration called a meeting for Friday
about the “misunderstanding.” We were
then instructed: When in Rome, do as the Romans do. We were also told the appropriate procedure
for rescheduling class and to be more careful in the future. We took this opportunity to talk about the
level of communication between the administration and us. We explained that we would appreciate it if
we were told things more than a few days in advance and that if one of us was
told something that does not mean that all of us know about it. It was actually a very good meeting and we
talked about a lot of important things that we had previously all been confused
about. The meeting also allowed the
administration to save face and reestablish their authority, which is important
in China. I understand where they were
coming from and respect their right to authority. I just do not agree that being upset with us
over Christmas Day is how they should choose to show it. Funny enough, they did not care about the
fact that Kelsey had cancelled all of her Thursday classes or that I had
cancelled all of my Monday class, just the Tuesday ones.
We then had a dinner Sunday night with all of our
administrators at a local restaurant. It
was a great deal of fun and all of our superiors got quite drunk. It is a rule that they must toast to everyone
in the room and the poor gentlemen were drinking bai jiu[i]. As a woman, I do not have to drink bai jiu,
but as a Western woman I am expected to drink beer. Luckily, I can sip and I don’t have to ganbei
(bottoms up). The men frequently do and
they are obligated to drink. We all
quickly made amends and got to know and respect each other more. I have to say, I am rather fond of our
department and I hope that I can witness many more dinners. I will certainly work harder to communicate
better with them in the future and discuss my cancellation plans with them well
in advance. However, I hope that they
have learned something about us too and I certainly hope that they have learned
to leave Christmas alone.
[i]
Bai jiu is a terrible invention. At
first, I thought that it was like a Chinese version of vodka, but no, even the
cheapest vodka in a plastic bottle from sketchy gas station is better than bai
jiu. It is really strong. It ranges from 60-100 proof and I am fairly
certain parts of the United States, especially during the era of prohibition, would
recognize it as moon shine. Be
forewarned, even the British boys from New Castle -who drink quite a lot and
quite often-can’t drink too much bai jiu.